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Thread: How To: Camber Arm install on Mazdaspeed 3

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    NARWHAL Workdawg's Avatar
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    Default How To: Camber Arm install on Mazdaspeed 3

    After installing my H&R coilovers (see here: http://www.mnmazda.com/forum/showthr...n-Mazdaspeed-3), I ended up with a little bit of negative camber in the rear. We can't have that now can we?

    I ordered a set of adjustable camber arms from this guy: http://dominanteng.com/ for $189 shipped, and that included powdercoating in any of a number of colors. I chose red to match my springs and this is what I ended up with.




    1. Tools
    - 17mm (for the bolts on the camber arms)
    - 10mm (for the bolt holding that stupid pump bracket in place)


    2. Removal of Stock Arms

    Having read a few other how-to's, the general consensus was that it's a pretty straightforward install, other than one snag. On the passenger's side, there's some kind of pump or something bolted to the subframe that makes it impossible to remove the upper camber arm bolt. The bracket holding the pump is too close to the bolt in the upper camber arm.



    The other how-to's suggested either dropping the rear sub-frame (DO NOT WANT), or somehow moving that pump out of the way (sort of want). So, obviously I took a shot at moving the pump out of the way. The first step is to remove the 10mm bolt that holds it in place. The bolt is on the top of the rear subframe and is only about 1" long.



    More up close view:


    The problem is it's REALLY hard to get to. I have a set of pivoting head, ratcheting box wrenches and even with one of them I was only able to get about 1/8 of a turn on the bolt at a time. After you loosen it up, it's possible, though tricky, to use your fingers to loosen the bolt the rest of the way. I found using one hand on each side of the sub-frame was easiest.



    Once you've got the bolt out and the pump and bracket are free, you need to move it out of the way. I tried for quite a while to no avail. There is very little room up there and the various hoses and stuff that are attached to the pump further limit it's movement. After much swearing and such other things, I took a wider look at the problem and figured out the following solution.

    Just to the rear of the spring upper perch are a couple of clips holding one of the hoses attached the pump. I found that after unclipping the hose from the two clips shown below, I was able maneuver the pump enough, finally.



    Follow the hose back toward the pump a little bit to find the other clip.



    I moved the pump forward and behind the upper camber arm mount.



    Now that that is taken care of, the rest of the install is easy.

    There are two 17mm bolts holding each camber arm in place. One is up on the rear subframe (you should know where this one is, since you just spent the first part of the install moving that damn pump so you can remove it), and one on the wheel hub/knuckle. It's pretty obvious where they are if you can find the camber arm, just look at each end.



    Remove those two bolts and the camber arm should come right out. Note that there is a brake line bracket also attached to the bolt on the knuckle and don't forget to put it back when you install the camber arm.

    The driver's side is perfectly straightforward.

    3. Installing the new camber arms



    Installing the new parts is pretty straight forward. Everything is just reversed. There are a few other things to consider though.

    First thing I did was to set the camber adjustment of the arms. Since I knew I had a little bit of negative camber from the drop, I wanted to set the arms a little bit longer to try and get back to neutral. To accomplish this, I compared the stock camber arm to the adjustable one and sit it slightly longer apart. I put one of the bolts through the non adjustable end of the new arm, and through the stock piece and compared the lengths.



    Since the entire end of the arm spins around to adjust length, it's pretty easy to make sure the arms are set at the same length. I set them both to the same as stock, then gave each an extra full spin just to start. (Turns out it was about perfect). I'd also recommend counting threads just to be sure they are even.

    Once you have the length set how you want. Install time!

    Start by getting the new arm into position. You want to put the upper bolt in first because that end isn't going anywhere. The non-adjustable end goes up in the sub-frame, the adjustable end into the knuckle. Just start threading the bolt in a ways and then go work on the knuckle.



    Get the other end of the of the camber arm into it's spot. It might be kind of tricky to get everything lined up right, but you should be able to grab the knuckle and move it around to get the holes line up to put the bolt in. That's why you want to do the upper side first... if the bottom holes don't line up, you can move the knuckle to line them up... and it's much easier to see. If you put the knuckle side in first, you have to wrestle the knuckle and try to line up the top bolt holes... much harder.

    Don't forget to reattach the brake line bracket at this point. I forgot the first time around...





    Tighten all the 17mm bolts in the camber arms down.

    Don't forget to bolt the pump back down to. It's kind of tricky to get it back in it's spot, but there's a tab on the bracket that needs to go in a little hole in the sub frame.



    Once you have the pump back, also don't forget to clip the hose back into it's spot.

    And that's it!
    Last edited by Workdawg; 06-05-2011 at 09:22 PM.

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    NARWHAL Workdawg's Avatar
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    A few pics I'm missing, but I wanted to add circles and stuff, so I'll get them up later.

  3. #3
    Hater dmention7's Avatar
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    Another nice write-up!
    2003.5 Laser Blue MSP #2543 (Modded Tastelessly and Carelessly)
    2009 SX4 Crossover (The Cold Weather Piggy)


    Quote Originally Posted by AJ
    I think the test to this would be to see if Tom's huge luv sac would fit in side it, I'd be stoked if it did

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