ABS Module/Pump Replacement questions

Discussion in 'General Repair, Maintenance, and Warranty' started by ProfessorP, Feb 10, 2014.

  1. ProfessorP

    ProfessorP New Member

    Hi Guys,

    I'm coming to you for some info on what needs to be done after installing a replacement ABS Module/Pump. This is for a 2004 Mazda 3s hatch with the 2.3 Liter. The ABS module was diagnosed as failing due to corrosion and needs to be replaced. Due to the extreme cost of a new part and labor ($1500 quote) I'm going the cheap route and planning to purchase one from a parts recycler and will be installing it myself. I have two main questions:

    1. How hard is this part to get at and replace? I haven't had a chance to look at where it is or how to access it. Is there a preferred way to get at it?

    2. It is my understanding that the replacement module may require reprogramming after it is installed What does that entail and how would I have that done? Can any shop do it or does it need to be done at a Mazda dealership? Can the car be driven before this is done? In otherwords, if I replace the part at home, will I be able to drive it to someone to reprogram or will the inability of the computers to recognize the part render the car immobile?

    Apologies for any "dumb" questions here, but I'm not familiar with replacing electronic components and need to know what I'm in for.

    Thanks for any information or recommendations you can provide on this.
     
  2. spek1098

    spek1098 New Member

    I've actually gone through this when I change the braking system from original '05 ABS system to the '07 MS3 DSC system. The toughest part is disconnecting the brake lines. It's a very tight space and is best done with speciallized wrenches made for removing brake lines with can be found at Sears. No reprogramming is needed. I also have my old ABS module that has been sitting on a shelf since '08 that I'd be willing to part with for a reasonable offer.
     
  3. ProfessorP

    ProfessorP New Member

    Thanks for the info. So I assume that disconnecting the brake lines means bleeding the brakes afterwards? (I suppose that would explain the high labor cost quoted...) Also, so the replacement module is plug-and-play and doesn't require anything else? If I can figure out if I'm up to the task of doing the work, I may make you an offer on your module.

    Thanks again.
     
  4. spek1098

    spek1098 New Member

    Yes, only type of reset that it may need would be to reset the cars ECU by disconnecting the battery of 15 minutes. I believe you will have to replace basically all of the brake fluid as the reservoir is above the pump and you will have air bubble at the beginning of the line causing all of it to need to be flushed. This repair is relatively easy if you've have a bit of wrenching under your belt. If you have done your own brakes before then this should be within your wheel house but I wouldn't recommend taking this on to someone who is inexperienced under the hood.
     

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