Thoughts on brake work for MS3

Discussion in 'General Repair, Maintenance, and Warranty' started by Workdawg, Jun 18, 2014.

  1. Workdawg

    Workdawg NARWHAL

    So, I recently did rotors and pads on all four corners of my Gen 1 Mazdaspeed3 (2008.5).

    There are plenty of how-tos around if you google for it... so I didn't bother to take pics and I don't plan to write a whole post about it... but I do have some thoughts about things that I noticed while doing mine.

    Fronts:
    DEFINITELY remove the caliper slide before trying to remove the brake pads. You do this by taking the plastic caps off the back of the caliper and using a hex wrench to take the pins out. I found that I couldn't get good access to the top bolt until after I removed the caliper from the rotor, but I use hex sockets, so a standard allen wrench may work.
    You also want to put the inside brake pad back in before re-installing the caliper slide. It's A LOT easier to jam that pad back into the caliper piston without the slide making things more complicated.

    Rears:
    On my car, the rotors were seized onto the wheel hubs REALLY badly. I hit those fuckers with everything I had for probably 10 minutes per side. I ended up spraying some PB Blaster at the lug bolts and it seemed to seep between the rotors and the hubs and helped free things up. I don't know if it really worked or not, but it seemed like it did.
    The rear caliper pistons need to be turned while they are pushed back in. They turn clockwise and I would HIGHLY recommend you get the proper tool to do this. Something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/media/...b33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_21554.jpg
    Do not settle for something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/four-wheel-disc-brake-piston-tool-68972.html
    I bought something similar from Advance Auto and it didn't even fit my calipers, let alone it doesn't actually provide any force to push the piston in.
    I used a pair of needlenose pliers and I had to quite literally put every bit of strength I had into pushing into the caliper while twisting to get them to go in. It sucked, A LOT.

    Both:
    Use some loctite on the bolts that attach the calipers to the wheel hubs.
     
  2. dmention7

    dmention7 Hater

    lol @ that harbor freight tool.

    I've always just used some needle nose or slip-joint pliars to depress the piston on those types of calipers.

    Did you clean and grease the slider pins and check the seals while you had the calipers apart?
     
  3. Workdawg

    Workdawg NARWHAL

    Yep
     
  4. Big Nate

    Big Nate Chaos Engineer

    I have the large caliper compression kit. It has been one of the best harbor freight tools I have ever purchased.

    As for the brake job sounds like all went well in front and the wheels came off the bus in the back. I us to think special tools were more of a gimmick until bought a couple. Now i just have planned into the cost of doing a new job any type of tools that will make my job easier. As for the hammering on the rotor to remove them. The best thing to use is a dead blow hammer. HERE. They deliver as much of a strike with far less chance damage.
     

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