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'05 Mz3 SP23 --> '05/'07 Mz3/MS3 Half Breed --> ???

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spek1098

Guest
Here's a brief history of the initial project:

10/29/07-
Well its done. I am now the owner of a slightly damaged MS3. It will make a great donor car. Only issue I've seen so far is that the TMIC is cracked pretty bad, I guess that means I'll more then likely end up with a FMIC, which will work, won't need to replace the hood.

I plan on selling the interior and almost any other parts that I don't need for the engine transplant.

Things I will be keeping:
Suspension
Brakes
Spoiler
Wheels and Tires (might trade/sell for something lighter)

My first project, to be started once I get past this weeks calc test, is to get the garage cleaned out that I will be using for this winter project. Also have a workbench I was able to pull out of the garabage here at work that needs to be set up. Then its time to start stripping the MS3 of saleable part.




11/5/07-
So this weekend I was finally able to dedicate some serious time to the garage and car. Started out with a garage full of crap, with only one small light and no outlets. Now I have a garage free of clutter, with plenty of lighting, electrical outlets, and a work bench.

I was also able to get most of the interior and about half the dash pulled. Found that I'm going to have to replace the driver's seat airbag, shouldn't be to big a deal, found them for about $100. Got the fender pulled out around the front drivers tire, am now able to turn the steering wheel and should, with a few people, be able to push it into the garage next weeked. Also got a little better look at the engine. Both the TMIC and intake manifold are cracked. There is also some bracing missing under the engine, causing it to swing a little loosely in the engine bay, not sure exactly what's missing. I had a buddy of mine who does this stuff a lot looking at it saturday night, so I didn't get a good look at it.

The front bumper would almost be useable, if it didn't have a 3 inch crack in it. Was able to salvage much of it, fog lights and such, and also found the projector from the toasted right hand headlight, makes me want to mod the fog lights and put them in there, maybe.

Won't be doing much during the week, put I'll keep this thread updated as I go along


4/23/08-
Well, I was sick as hell for the last week and a half, so I just got really going with it last night. Right now it's still a tear down. I got the radiator and front end off the speed. Tonight I'm going to figure out if I can remove the transaxles without completely disassembling the suspension. That's important because I'm going to have to be able to roll the MS3 shell out of the garage when I'm ready to work on my SP23. Other option would be to have some type of wheels or casters to move the car around on. My goal is to have the engine out of the speed by the end of this weekend, then I get to the scary part of tearing apart my good SP23, that's the part I'm most nervous for.


5/5/08-
We'll, after car shopping all day and getting my sister into a CWP CX-7 on Satuday, I dug into the speed on Sunday with a buddy of mine and got the engine out. Wasn't to difficult. The RH axel was pretty easy as it pulled right out once removed from the hub. LH axel was much more of a pain, as it requires prying per the shop manual. Well we pryed and pryed at it without any luck, so I ended up just leaving it in the tranny as nothing was in the way when pulling the engine. After that it was a few coolant and PS lines, clutch line, shift linkages and the upper motor mounts. Notice no mention of the lower motor mount, that's because it wasn't there. Also the mid pipe and sway bar were removed, although I have the stock ones. Guess Jeff pulled all his aftermarket stuff before handing her over. Made the job easier I guess.

I have to say that I am much more confident and comfortable attacking the SP23 and pulling its engine after getting this one out. The wiring harness isn't going to be as big an issue as I thought, it's just the one connection to ECU.

Tonight I'm planing on reconnecting and installing the control arm, steering, rotor and wheels and seeing if I can get the shell of the car out of the garage to get it ready for the SP23.


5/19/08-
Both engines and both sets of front suspension are now up. Next is to figure out what, if anything is need in the fuel system, and to switch out the master cyclinder.


5/23/08-
I've been working this week on the brake and electrical systems, pulling the main brake components and studying the electrical system. I have come to the conclution that my best bet, with what I know at this point, is to swap the entire electrical system. I have several reasons for this: I am unable to find a wiring diagram for the MFB (Main Fuse Block- engine bay) for either the 05 or 07. There are differences in the PJB (passenger Junction Box) between the 04 Euro Manual and the 07 Manual, but I'm unsure at this point if the 04 euro translates into my 05 us spec car. There are many more relays in the MFB of the 07 speed 3 vs a 07 n/a 3, and at this point, no way to comfirm if the n/a 3 is wired for those relays or not, and even less if it's in my 05. I also am working on the braking system. I started with the calipers. Figured I should do the master cylinder to make sure I don't have any issues. Well now the brake booster (what the MC is connected to) is twice as large, and the brake lines are different, and then the ABS is now a DSC which has twice the sensors.... So I'm at the point where I may as well just do it all. Lastly, I want the auto climate control as well, and good luck trying to make that work without the 07 wiring.

So all this leads to the conclution that my project has doubled in size this week. I'm not certain I will need to do this, but once I get into the MFBs wiring in both cars, I will have a clearer picture.


6/7/08-
Wires, wires everywhere, but progress is being made. DSC system, brake booster, MC, and a few brake lines have been installed and wired in. Stillneed to install the combined sensor under the passengers seat. Tonight I've been disecting and mapping the MFB's relays and fuses. Once that is done, I'll need to make a few additions and alterations to the MFB and I should be set to install the engine electrically. Think I've decided to go with the MS3 power steering setup. The DISI fueling sytem and MS3 cooling fan place a large electrical load on the system. I also still need to change out clutch cables, somebrake lines, fuel tank and fuel lines before installing the engine. Lots more to do, but taking my time and trying to make sure its done right the first time. Reworking any of this would be a complete PITA


6/23/08-
Fuse box is completed. Wired directly into the fuse box my HID indy fogs, my halos, an additional relay for future use (HID high beams?), along with the relays and fuses for the new fuel system, the upgraded radiator fan that the speed has, and dedicated power wires for the interior, one always on, the other activated by the main relay. Also removed the wiring for the power steering pump.

The cabin has also been mostly wired up, other then for my halo switch and the power wires I ran to the center concel. I've wired in and installed both the steering angle sensor and combined sensor for the DSC system. I've put the SAS on a switch, as I've read it can be disconnected to eliminate the toque limiter at certain steering angles (unsure if this is only works with Piasini flash, but I will soon find out). I've also wired in the DSC off button and wired in the larger power cable for the fuel pump along with the different connector that goes with it.

Now to the suspension. Completed the swap of the rear subframe while installing the Cobb RSB and springs, minus one mistreaded bolt that will need to be fixed. Also installed FSB and springs, and installed the front strut setup from the speed 3.

Fuel and brake lines have all been swaped along with A/C and power steering lines. Still need to button up the brake lines and double check that I have them connected all correctly.

What needs to be done. Fuel tank is in progress. Was a dumbass and forgot to install the stock MS3 exhaust (still in one piece), so I'm going to have to have a flange welded in, unless I decide to disassemble the rear end again to install it. Also will need to install the added bracing for the tunnel and some heat shielding inside the engine bay. After that, it's time to replace the engine.


6/29/08-
The SP23 has been imbued with the power of the DISI, behold:


Very successful day yesterday. Heat shield was buttoned up and the engine was mounted. Connected most of the A/C, PS and coolant lines. Some repairs were made; the vacuum line for the BPV was J/B welded into place on the intake manifold, and the swirl valve control solinoid value was replaced.

We still need to fix up the connection to CDFP, as seen here.


Much thanks to Young Roids and Aviateur for there time and help with this rebuild!

Will she be running soon? Could be...


6/30/08-
Parts used from the speed 3: Radiator, A/C Radiator, Cooling Fan, parts of the fuse box and wiring harness, entire engine, tranny, axles, strut with brake and lower control arm assembly, top engine mounts, coolant lines, a/c lines, power steering system with lines, master cylinder, brake booster, dsc system, instument cluster, steering angle sensor, combined sensor, fuel lines, brake lines, fuel tank, exhaust system, rear subframe with all the suspension, shift boot, dsc off button, shifter, shifter cables, and the mazdaspeed door sills.

I think that covers most everything.


6/30/08-
It's official, she's ALIVE!

First engine start with no codes @ 5:30 pm 6/30/2008


6/30/08-
Well, my FMIC is due in wensday, who's all going to porky's?


7/2/08-
Been running around tonight in her, no hood, no mid-pipe back. Good times. Everything working fine other then an issue with the TPMS and some clunking, which I can live with for now. Still need an alignment, and getting my fmic tomorrow. Hopefully I can get that installed with the exhaust tomorrow, got the wrong flange at napa tonight else it be in now.


7/2/08-
Originally Posted by mndsm - Whaddya mean by "clunking"?

I've read about others having "clunking" sounds after doing stage 2, so I'm not sure how bad it is. It's mostly at low speeds, going over uneven pavement. I will have to have someelse hear it, and get a better look under there before I know whats up. The front sway was sitting against the subframe when it was up on jacks and set to the stiffer settings, so clearance might be an issue.


A Few pics for your enjoyment. I love to stance the car has now.






7/3/08-
Cobb FMIC = FTMFW! Fits like a charm, even with my hood on, no issues. Only thing left to do is button up the inside and (maybe) put the CBE back on.


7/4/08-
My mechanic said part of the clunking is the endlinks I wercked when I spun the nut and the boot removing them. I guess that causes them to wear out quick and clunck. I also thinking some of it is coming from that rear MM. We put the stock MS3 one on, but I'm still waiting on my CP-e MM, so I'm guessing that will help too. I also have noticed some creaking coming from pass rear suspension. That's were I put the strut with the bad bushing so I'm guessing I will be putting my stock 3 struts in sooner then later, until I figure out what to do back there.

Otherwise things have been mostly good, although I did pop the IC line that connects to BPV piece last night. Got her fixed this morning. Oddly enough it didn't throw any codes, although it was entirely gimped up, and unable to rev above 2k.

I will be out of town this wednesday but the one after that I should be able to show up at porky's and let ya'll get a look of the finished product.
 
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spek1098

Guest
1. The engine now has about 40k on her and has been running in her new host for 27k of those without a hiccup. Last summer I upgraded the struts and the front end links, this summer will be an AP, intake pipe, some gauges and upgraded rear endlinks. I need to do something with my front fog lamps, one has a broken bracket which is about $100 to replace. I'm thinking I'd rather put that money into a projector retrofit, so that will become a project very soon.

Some tentative plans for the car in the future:
By next summer I'd like to be focusing on the fueling system. I'd like to upgrade the CDFP, injector seals, and injectors all at once, so that make these upgrades contingent on release of upgraded injectors. A second set of upgrades I'd like to pursue is a big turbo upgrade, which would include the exhaust manifold, BT, and DP. I'm fairly certain I'd do these two things in this order, but it could change, say if I learn the fuel system can safely handle a BT or the stock snail starts thinking it want cheech and chong as a role model.

The next major change, coming in a few years perhaps, will be to ditch FWD and do either a RWD or AWD conversion. My thinking at this point is that I'd rather do a RWD conversion over an AWD, for what reason, I'm not totally sure, but it's what I'm focusing on right now. I'm thinking though that a RWD might be tougher conversion then an AWD conversion due to the orientation on the engine. I believe I'd have to rotate the engine 90* properly mount up to a RWD transmission. AWD on the other hand has been done before (http://www.dgmotorsports.com/), I think with either a CX-7 or MS6 transmission and a CX-7 rear diff and axel.

I'd love to hear everyone’s thoughts on this, what options are out there, how would you go about this?
 
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spek1098

Guest
Today I ordered a pair of '04-'06 MDX H11 Projector for my fog light retrofit project. These were recommended by sok07 over on M3F for the rugged build. He's done many fog light retrofits using these housing. My concern with he's method is that he uses them without anything protecting the projector lens, leaving it exposed to road debris. So my choice is to mount these directly where the current fogs are or to modify the current fog housings to accept these projectors. Thoughts?

I'm likely going to need to purchase some sheet metal to fab up a mounting solution for this project and these has me considering another project I wanted to tackle at some point: A SS under-engine tray, like the Elise pictured below, perhaps even with an underbody tunnel for increased down pressure. Not sure where this will go, at this point just random ideas that have been floating around my head for a while.
 

dmention7

Hater
I have thought about building an aluminum under-engine tray before, but I doubt I lack the fab skills to make it happen and look decent. Why stainless over aluminum?
 

Workdawg

NARWHAL
That looks like a Ferrari, not a Lotus. Also, added weight < benefits of "added downforce" at highway speeds?
 
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spek1098

Guest
Good point Jay, Alum would be much better option. I have a machine shop here at my work and a design engineer who’s willing to help me out.

Nitpicking aside, the pic gets the point across. I wouldn't be considering this if "highway" speeds were what I was thinking about and a few pounds of alum won't affect much. My thoughts at this point would be mostly under the engine, and as a rear diffuser, but nothing is certain yet.

Thoughts on if a the projectors lens can hold up to road debris?

(Here's the best pic of an Elise underside I could find, it's more inline with what I was thinking of doing)

 
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mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
I don't imagine they'd hold up terribly well Jurgen, but i've not had one up close. Optical stuff like that can be brittle, and if it's glass, no way. Plastic, it's probably pretty strong, but i'd imagine it'd be easy enough to damage it either way and throw the projection way off.
 

dmention7

Hater
Yeah, there's no way you'd want a projector lens exposed. That shit would get eaten up the first time you drove the car.

And the main thing I'd be concerned with in doing an under-engine tray is cooling. If you didn't design it properly, you could really inhibit airflow across the radiator and through the engine bay and potentially cause problems that way.

Also, it took me a few minutes to realize that lotus wasn't pointed straight up intentionally. lol
 
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spek1098

Guest
I was thinking that too, but this guy had done his and a few others that way so it left me wondering, plus it would have been a bit easier to install then having to cut up my foglamps.

The under tray I'm condsidering would basiclly be a replacement for the stock undertray and wheel wells. I wouldn't do much in the area past the DP and before the gas tank because of the heat issues from the exhaust and the air flow issue you mentioned Jay.

Did a little more searching and here's the story on that Elise.
http://www.my914-6.com/crap/
 
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spek1098

Guest
I'm reconsidering this years upgrades. I'd really like to get a decent amount of time in on the road course up at BIR, so I'm thinking of holding off on the AP and instead spend that money on upgrading the upper motor mounts, slotted and drilled rotors, steel brake lines, and HAS plus pads. Thinking ensuring the engine stays in the bay and maximizing braking ability is a higher priority then more power with the plans I have.

Projectors should be in today, will start the retrofit project Sunday or Monday.
 
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spek1098

Guest
Made my purchases tonight:

Via Tire Rack:
- Set of DBA 4000 Series Slotted Rotors

Via MAP:
- Cobb TIP
- Goodridge Stainless Steel Brake Lines
- Prosport 52mm Electrical Boost Gauge
- 2 quarts Motul RBF 600 Brake Fluid

Via Street Unit:
- AWR Rear End Links
- StreetUnit's Billet Aluminum Side Engine Mounts
- SPC Camber Adjustable Rear Arm (1 more to complete the set)

Should have plenty to do for the install day :)
 
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spek1098

Guest
Going to pick up some HPS Plus pads from the guy selling them on here.
 
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