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How many does this moron have, anyways? (Celica content)

C

concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
Alright, soo....

I have this Celica that i've had for a few years.

It's been sitting for two years, because i was bored with the stock motor enough that when it developed a front suspension noise, i just parked it.

Suspension has been thoroughly worked. Exterior has had some work. It's gutted. It has a lot of tire. It was no fun to drive because the stock motor just wasn't capable of getting the chassis bent out of shape no matter how stupidly you drove it. It was FAST in some twisties, just no fun at all.

So.

Sunday, i drove down to Louisville and picked up a 3sgte out of an MR2 Turbo with a few spun bearings. Motor is complete minus wiring harness, ecu, map sensor, and has one cracked cam gear. Also came with an ST205 Celica GT4 trans (that i'll sell for $700-$900) and a blown turbo. (That'll throw out.)

I paid $200 for the whole package.


Now, my current dilemma. I have no idea what to do for motor. My goal is 350-400whp, this is just a FWD car after all, and it only weighs about 2300lbs, with more weight to be lost down the road.

So, focusing JUST on block/head, i need input on the best route. Options:

1) Rebuild to stock specs, clean head, run it. (Will handle the power just fine.)
2) Try to be a little more efficient. Stock bottom end, headwork/cams.
3) MORE efficient. Built bottom end with higher compression, headwork/cams.
4) Build bottom end to be bombproof in case i get bored and want to try my hand at Sport Compact drags. Build 1000whp capable shortblock.
5) Stroker. I have the block and crank out of the Celica currently that could easily be combined for about $200 more than building stock 2.0 litre. Would end up with a 2.2 litre motor capable of ALL the power.


Halp!



For the record, i will not be starting this build at all under Escort is done, so stay off my back. :D I'm just mapping out plan of attack at the moment.

 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
He's gonna build it stock. For the price of a BJ from a good hooker (or several from cheap hookers) he can make it better than stock. I see no reason no to. I also know Ben well enough to know he'd probably do something that bad without my direction.
 
C

concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
YSOSLO said:
That Tom and his big ideas with other people's money!.....lol
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mndsm said:
He's gonna build it stock. For the price of a BJ from a good hooker (or several from cheap hookers) he can make it better than stock. I see no reason no to. I also know Ben well enough to know he'd probably do something that bad without my direction.
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Tom does have somewhat of a point. The stroker really only adds $200-$300 on top of building the stock bottom end. $200 extra for the rods, maybe $100 extra for the machine work to the crank, and i'm not even sure if that's necessary. My dilemma is not knowing whether or not the stroker will make the car better or WORSE to drive considering FWD and light weight. I would like some traction.

If this were an MR2 or AllTrac, i wouldn't even be asking. I'd just be doing the stroker.
 
dmention7

dmention7

Hater
I'd say the bigger question is what effect does a stroker crank have on the torque curve and other engine characteristics that will affect your ultimate goals? It's not just as simple as MOAR DISPLACEMENT MOAR POWER in most cases. What about rod ratio, rod angle, compression ratio, etc?

That said, IDK why you're even asking. You're going to do it anyways.
 
C

concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
dmention7 said:
I'd say the bigger question is what effect does a stroker crank have on the torque curve and other engine characteristics that will affect your ultimate goals? It's not just as simple as MOAR DISPLACEMENT MOAR POWER in most cases. What about rod ratio, rod angle, compression ratio, etc?

That said, IDK why you're even asking. You're going to do it anyways.
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Nah, this is genuine. The only scenario in which the stroker is set in stone right now is if the crank is fuxxored on the 3sgte from the bearing lunch. I kinda doubt it is.

Compression ratio is a moot point. I can build it to whatever compression i want.

Rod ratio is valid, i'll try to get comparison numbers today.

I DO know that the strokers aren't quite so rev-happy. But that's comparatively. People still spin them to 8000rpms.
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
I guess the real question is, how far do you want to go? Seems to me doing the build once, and building it to max potential out of the box is the right idea. Even if you decide you want a smaller turbo for more midrange or whatever as opposed to some 100mm monstrosity, you're probably going to be happier with the powerband of a stroker as opposed to some high rev stocker. Even off boost, car'd be quicker/more driveable on a stroker IMO.
 
C

concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
True, it'll be quicker off boost. The stocker will also be quicker off boost than the original motor that was in the car as well.
 
T

Turbotalon1g

Guest
IF car is only fwd, i wouldn't do a stroker.

Also what wheels are on that celica?
 
C

concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
Stroker it is.

After further research, they rev just fine. With a decent set of cams and no other changes, they go to 8000rpms quite willingly. Only real change NECESSARY to go much over 8000rpms is converting to shimless buckets out of an 00-05 Celica GTS. Figure if i'm going to do cams and headwork, may as well do that as well.

Looks like an 8500-9000rpm stroker is a go. :D
 
T

Turbotalon1g

Guest
I'm telling you being FWD, you don't want extra TQ. But i'd love to see some 70mph burnouts.
 
C

concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
Well,

I have an ST205 Celica GT4 WRC edition complete head and fuel rail/injectors/regulator available to me for $400 if i desire. Apparently the head is an upgrade, particularly on the intake side, and has more aggressive cams, but still nothing crazy. The injectors are 540cc, which should handle my power goals.

At this point, i'm thinking i should get it, then part/sell the Gen2 head, intake and exhaust manifolds, and fuel system to recoup, and roll with the mother of all hybrid motors.

2.2 Celica/Camry block
2.2 Celica/Camry Crank
Pauter "stroker" rods
2.0 3sgte pistons of my choice
Gen3 head


Or do we think that the $400 would be better spent concentrating on getting the gen2 head worked as well as replacing the cracked cam gear?
 
mndsm

mndsm

I'M OFFENDED!
Cracked cam gear can cause other problems, I'd say if the WRC head is solid, do that ASAP.
 
C

concealer404

Skanky Escorts LLC
mndsm said:
Cracked cam gear can cause other problems, I'd say if the WRC head is solid, do that ASAP.
Click to expand...

Oops, sorry... the cracked cam gear is ON this head, but isn't from this head. The cracked cam gear came from the Gen3 motor that is currently in dude's AW11 MR2. He just swapped the gear from this toast motor onto the good motor. It's never been run with this cam gear. :)

But yes, i think i'm doing the Gen3 WRC head. I forgot the big advantage to it. Shim under buckets. :)
 
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