Jay's MSP (aka Project Not-A-Subaru, aka Project Slotege, aka IDK...)

[dmention7]

Had a productive morning today.

Turned this:

Into this:

And this:

Unfortunately the rest of my parts aren't nearly as neat and tidy as my pile of internals. The rest of my garage looks more this right now, haha

 

[Picklz]

Wow, impressive work for the day! Have you come across anything that looks like it was contributing to the noises you were hearing that prompted this little project?

 

[dmention7]

No smoking guns, but there were a couple signs that the motor was getting old. 3 of the 4 pistons had noticable scraping on one side of the skirt, and the rod bearings looked to be pretty worn too. I don't have the expertise to really make a diagnosis, but I suspect the rebuild is coming none too soon. I'll try and get a few better pics of the worn bits up tomorrow in case anyone wants to throw in their $0.02.

I still need to dig into the head and intake mani... those are other possible sources of weird noises.

Also, if anyone has any good info on cleaning engine parts, I'd appreciate it. I want to get the head spotless inside and out, and I'd also like to get things like the alternator and stuff cleaned up nicely before I put things back together.

 

[dmention7]

Oh and another question... this motor has solid lifters with shims that can be swapped out to adjust valve lash. Anyone know if it's standard practice for the motor to have different shims from the factory, or are they all going to be the same? In other words, can I just remove them all and toss them together, or do I need to keep track of which lifter came from which valve?

 

[niterydr]

You will need to measure clearances and maintain those clearances. I know on the 3sgte there is a shim over bucket design and each shim is different thicknesses to make the intake and exhaust valves fall within spec.

Common practice on tearing apart any engine is to label everything and put it back where it came from, unless you are replacing it with new.

 

[dmention7]

Thanks Josh. That was my plan unless someone told me otherwise.

 

[niterydr]

Thanks Josh. That was my plan unless someone told me otherwise.

Anytime.

 

[concealer404]

Oh and another question... this motor has solid lifters with shims that can be swapped out to adjust valve lash. Anyone know if it's standard practice for the motor to have different shims from the factory, or are they all going to be the same? In other words, can I just remove them all and toss them together, or do I need to keep track of which lifter came from which valve?

What Josh said.

It's unlikely that your intake and exhaust cams have the same profiles so the shims will likely be different.

I ran into that with the head i put together for my car, even though i'm still running HLAs. I had to shim to keep it all functional with my cam. That said, i'm talking about a single cam, so it probably doesn't translate that well. But either way, label it all and all that jazz like he said.


Someone told me you were looking for a good site for fasteners the other day? What are you looking for?

 

[dmention7]

I was trying to find stainless (not zinc steel) JIS fasteners - specifially flanged nuts and bolts. All the stock stuff is that yellow-zinc plated steel and generally has a good bit of corrosion built up on the heads. As long as I've got everything torn apart and am painting the block and cleaning up wiring, I'd like to get some of the more visible fasteners replaced with something nicer looking, and replace some of the beat up stuff with good stainless.

I've found several sites that carry what I'm looking for (specifically THIS and THIS) but everything so far is in zinc plated steel. Picklz posted a link to an engine dress-up site, but that ish was way to spendy for my blood... something like $15 for a pack of 5 M6 nuts.

 

[Big Nate]

McMaster Carr Go there they have almost anything you may want.

 

[Workdawg]

Haha, holy shit, they sell the socket cap screws I needed for my center caps, and pretty cheap too. Too bad I already ordered some.

 

[dmention7]

Ugh, just found out the oil squirters are press-in and non-reusable. Tack another $100 in parts onto my bill. lol

 

[dmention7]

Went ahead and picked up a Nissan t25 turbo, since I'm reasonably certain my stocker is hosed. I don't really have a good way to measure, but the in-out shaft play seems pretty significant to me. As far as I can tell, it's basically this turbo except it's journal bearing, uses bolt-on flanges for the compressor inlet/outlet, and it needs to be clocked 180 degrees. Guy says it was just rebuilt, so I guess we'll see when it shows up.

 

[Picklz]

How does that turbo compare to the stocker? do you know if there are compressor maps available for both?

 

[dmention7]

I wasn't able to find the info on Garrett's website since it was an OEM application, but after digging through some Nissan forums, it appears that the compressor and turbine wheels are the same as the GT2554 MSP stock turbo. I'm going to do a little more searching this afternoon, but I'm reasonably certain that it's going to be suitable at least in the short term. The commonly accepted knowledge seems to be that 270-290 (depending on which specific t25 came on the car) is where the SR20 tops out on stock turbo, so even accounting for crappy head and cam design, it should support my goal of 240-250. If not... well, I only paid $160 for it. lol

 

[mndsm]

Disco Potato junior!

 

[dmention7]

Yeah yeah. Once I get the eleventy-billion other things straightened out, THEN I'll worry about little things like getting a proper turbo

 

[mndsm]

Have you even sent the block out for machining yet? Seems that I might get the ms3 tuned before you get that thing running lol.

 

[dmention7]

Yep, dropped it off on Saturday. Expecting a call soon to come pick it up. I have a lot of work left though, so you've got some time.

 

[mndsm]

MAP doing the work?