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Some used oil analysis from other MS3 owners

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DrWebster

Guest
I wonder how much of this applies to the NA 2.3L. I've been running Mobil1 5W20 since I got the car, have about 25k on it now. I need to send in another UOA, I've been slacking for the past few changes.
 

dmention7

Hater
The parts relating to metal contents likely are applicable, but fuel dilution shouldn't be a concern. IIRC, people running mobil1 on the N/A MZR were getting excellent UOA results.
 

darkdan

New Member
Any info on Amsoil full synthetic?
What specifically would you like to know? I've been a dealer for about 6 or 7 years now.

It's proven itself to be the king of the extended drain intervals though. Most N/A people can safely go 7500~10k blindly, anything longer and I always recommend a UOA or two to back it up.

Keep in mind the performance gap between all the top tier synthetics is pretty small. It really takes long term UOA trending to decide which oil is best for your motor and your driving conditions/style.

In the oil debates a lot of people forget about oil filters. Which are just as important.

http://home.mindspring.com/~cewhite3nc/index.html

I also highly recommend maintenance dozes or periodical cleanings with www.auto-rx.com

If you can afford it and really love your engine, get a bypass filter setup and then enjoy super long intervals about 60% reduction in wear.
 

JohnnyT

New Member
Looks like I should switch oil's, since it's getting colder though I'll stick with 5W-30 PP.

What's a good filter for these engines??
 

darkdan

New Member
Looks like I should switch oil's, since it's getting colder though I'll stick with 5W-30 PP.
While PP is proving itself to be a good oil, keep in mind it's a group III "synthetic" and therefore lacks the cold weather properties of the PAO synthetics (IV).

Think of group III hydrocracked oils as "highly refined conventional" oils. While PAO basestocks are actually built up and man made.
 

darkdan

New Member
Any PAO synthetic 5w30 or 0w30. Obviously, 0w30 would be best (especially that week of neg30F we always get).

FWIW, I use AMSOIL's ASL 5w30 year round. I tried AMSOIL's 0w30, but I honestly couldn't justify the extra cost.

Mobil1 has some new 0wXX out, but they're only ACEA A1/B1, have a low TBN, and low HTHS. Pennzoil Platinum has a 0w20 (which MIGHT be PAO...doubtful), but no 0w30.

0wXX might be overkill, but it does get cold here. Either way a PAO 5wXX is going to flow much better than anyone conventional 5wXX thanks to it's superior viscosity curve.

But stick with Mobil1EP/AMSOIL/RP/Red Line and you should be fine.
 

LASERBLUE135

Active Member
i've always used moble1 full synth 5/30. I'm at 105,000 miles and do 3-4000 mile changes. my car has always ran pretty smooth. driven year round every single day of the year it gets driven somewhere...every...single...day. Based on this car, moble1 has won me over and I'll probly use it forever on car I drive. I buy it at walmart 5 quart jugs for $20bucks.
 

darkdan

New Member
4k interval on Mobil1 is just throwing away good oil.

Spend the $25 on a used oil analysis once or twice to prove to yourself it can go longer and start enjoying the benefits of longer drain intervals.

Also, longer drain intervals tend to show less wear than several shorter ones adding up to the same distance. Apparently, some of the organic compounds in the oil work better after they have oxidized a little bit.
 

YSOSLO

is the word, beotch
What kind of intervals are most people using with Mobil1? I've had 3 oil changes since I bought by car (Oct of last year) and it's going to be time for another one in about a month or so. My first 2 oil changes were at the dealership bc they were free, but it was such a PITA making arrangements to make it happen there, so I got my last one done at a local CarRx with Valvoline (not sure what type the dealership uses). After reading so many different good things online about Mobile1 for a NA Mazda3, I'm considering switching...
 

darkdan

New Member
Blindly without a UOA to back it up? 7500 to 10k in an NA motor. Mobil1 EP claims up to 15k, but by then the oil is really worn out in most vehicles.

If you do get a UOA it might confirm being able to go a little bit longer.

Throw in a 2 oz maintenance doze of auto-rx.com and you might be able to extend it even further. Last I knew a bunch of volunteers were testing extended OCI with auto-rx and having some good results (even with conventional oil).
 

Big Nate

Chaos Engineer
Has anyone ever had there oil tested by some place other the Blackstone???

I will post up what i get back from the place i send mine this week. It could be very interesting.
 

darkdan

New Member
I've had mine done by AMSOIL. Kits are affordable, free TBN test on AMSOIL oils, extra cost on nonAMSOIL oil. Not to mention you can get them postage paid so you just drop them into a mailbox. Turn around time is a bit slow (like 1 to 1.5 weeks). Non-postage paid and UPS paid are also options!!!

[urlhttp://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?zo=1170124&page=storefront/oai]AMSOIL UOA Postage Paid Kits[/url]

Butler Machinery does it too.

http://www.butlercat.com/services/product_support_oil.asp

VERY fast turn around time. Very affordable. They have some unique tests too that you can pay extra for (like pictures of the oil!). Results can be accessed via the web even.


Keep in mind each place will turn up slightly different results and you have to keep using the same lab over and over to get meaningful trends. Some use a slightly different TBN test that can give very different results. But as long as you consistently use the same one you'll know more about your oil.


Let's not forget, if you can afford it, have Terry Dyson interpret the results for you:

http://www.dysonanalysis.com/

He can tell you drastically more about your oil and engine than anyone else. Not to mention give good solid advice on improving your results (change oil, change viscosity, use auto-rx, use FP60, etc). Basically, all I can say is go longer, go shorter, throw away your K&N air filter. LOL.
 

Workdawg

NARWHAL
It's cool having a pro around to give advice on oil. I know very little about it, so I'm trying to learn.

Above you recommend a 5 or 0w30 for winter while talking about N/A cars... just wondering if those recommendations hold up for those of us with the DISI turbo.

I'm due for an oil change pretty quick here and would like some advice on what to get for reasonable cost.
 

darkdan

New Member
For turbos that are out of warranty I recommend 5w40. Turbos tend to have higher oil temps so a little extra viscosity never hurts.

For turbos in warranty, I recommend whatever they say in the book. Usually 5w30.
 
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